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Ding ding! Round two! Begin the rolling steps again with the second
piece of dough. Laminate, then once the second piece has rolled
through to the second thinnest aperture, and the tail is again caught
at the end and the sheet widened, trim and then brush lard on the
end closest to you. Place the first sfog log on top of the end, rolling
the first log inside the newly rolled dough piece (like rolling a rolled- up
carpet inside a flat carpet). Start rolling and brushing lard again
as you did with the first piece of dough, making the sfog log fatter.


Release the tail to finish the roll and set aside. Roll the log into the
remaining dough portions until you have a finished log approximately
5 cm (2 in) in diameter and 16 cm (6¼ in) long. If the sfog log has
tapered ends, trim these off now and discard.


Wrap in plastic and chill for a minimum of 2 hours, ideally overnight.


At this stage the log will keep chilled for up to 4 days.


Start the filling on the day of assembly: bring the milk, sugar and
salt to the boil in a small saucepan over a medium–high heat. Off
the heat, stream the semolina in, whisking constantly with a balloon
whisk. Return the pan to a low heat and whisk until the mix boils and
thickens to a stodgy mashed potato consistency – around minutes.


Scrape into a clean mixing bowl and press plastic wrap onto the
surface to prevent a skin forming. Cool for 20 minutes at room
temperature (or speed chill in the fridge).


When the semolina mix has cooled to lukewarm, beat with a stiff
plastic spatula to soften the mix. Add the egg yolks, vanilla, cinnamon
and zest. Beat in the drained ricotta (discard the whey), then add the
rum or grappa. Chill the mix until ready to use.


If the semolina base gets too cold, use your hands to squeeze the yolks and
semolina together. It’s thiccck.

To bake, preheat the oven to 180°C (360°F) and line a heavy baking
tray with a light spray of cooking oil and baking paper. Unwrap the
log (reserve the wrap) and cut into eight coins, 2 cm in) thick each,
with a sharp knife. Take a minute to marvel at the cross-section.


Bellissima!
Lift the first disc up and hold it with your fingers underneath and
thumbs on top. Start at the edges to flatten out the disc by moving
the dough around and lightly pressing. Try not to press the layers too
hard, or they can fan all the way apart and make a hole. (But if you do,
don’t worry because, you know, icing sugar later!)
continued